I wouldn’t wish these critters on my worst enemy! I spent 5 grand on treatment!
I just came across this older post which is very current for us. We’re in the process of buying a house, and the diagnostics report shows that there is some evidence of Petite vrilette (common furniture beetle) and some Grosse vrilette (death watch beetle) in some parts of the house/outbuildings. Seeing that the house is going to be empty before we move in, I wonder if it would be worth setting of an insect ‘bomb’ in the place. It worked in our curent house, but I’m not sure if it works for the Grosse vrilette. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Quick response, as Strictly has started! Insect bombing isn’t the solution. Please don’t waste your money. Will respond in detail soon.
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Thanks, looking forward to it.
Robert Moon, still waiting for your solution… In the mean time, can anybody tell me if I get somebody in to get rid of the bugs, does the house need to be empty with all the furniture covered up etc, or is it not that invasive? I do have cats and dogs to consider (and oh yes, a husband somewhere too). Just trying to figure out how to arrange everything before we move in, but we are not ‘on site’ until then.
Hi, I’m really sorry for the tardy reply, it’s Asian Hornet season at the moment!!
I use a product not available in to Mr Gen Public for the prevention and treatment of wood munching critters:
CONTIENT: 4 g/L Perméthrine 10g/L Propiconazole
USAGES : Insectes xylophages et moisissures à l’intérieur et extérieur des habitations
ACTION : Insecticide prêt à l’emploi à très longue rémanence.
Below is an article I wrote in 2014 for a well known ex pat newspaper distributed free in the Limousin and Dordogne regions. It is a first draft and was edited correctly by the time it went to press, so forgive the bad spelling and grammar!
For more info, please PM me.
Rob
Xylophages and Capricornes?
_I’m not referring to a musical instrument or an astrological star sign, but the French collective names for timber pests. There are many varieties which would take too long to go into, so this is a very general synopsis, referring all as woodworm (except termites, which I will cover later in the year). _
The natural habitat of woodworm is outside, in dead tree trunks and branches. They find their way indoors usually by human intervention, which is why it’s so important to take your winter logs outside.
_The adults of most wood-boring beetle emerge from timber in the spring and early summer to breed. After mating, the female will lay on approximately 30 eggs, which are pressed into old holes, cracks and crevices of the wood. _
_Depending on the temperature of the house, two to four weeks later, the eggs hatch, the young larvae (instar) will then begin to bore into the timber, generally following the grain. Both soft and hard woods are attacked, although the harder the wood, the longer it takes them to tunnel, and indeed complete their lifecycle, which can take between 2 and 4 years depending on the wood, temperature, hardness and humidity. _
The final instar constructs a pupation chamber just beneath the surface, whereupon the adult beetle emerges by chewing the cap off this chamber thus leaving a dust residue, proving you have an active infestation.
Curing old infested timber is difficult, as accessing to all timber joints and surfaces is often difficult or impossible. Severe infestations will probably require the wood to be replaced. When removing infested wood, treat it gently, banging seven bells or throwing it out the 3rd floor window is the best way to spread an infestation. If possible, wrap it up then burn it.
Now [April to July] is the perfect time of the year to treat woodworm, as the majority of beetles, eggs and larvae will be on or very close to the surface. Perméthrine based wood treatment products have a residual effect of up to 10 years, it’s absorbed into the wood which is then toxic to the woodworm.
_In my opinion, application with a pressurised spray is sufficient. It has the advantage of being a fraction of the cost of injecting and the spray can penetrate into the existing holes made by their host, killing the majority of larvae and prevent adults laying eggs. _
Care must always be taken before any treatment is carried out to ensure that bats are not present or have been present in the premises to be treated. Bats are protected, so if there is any evidence of bats, contact eurobats.org who have a list of bat conversation societies in France.
FIN
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Hi
Please also read my post (dated today) concerning woodworm treatment, but a specific response to your question, is no, don’t smoke bomb your house, it will kill most things that come into contact with the fumigène but it had no long lasting effects and it doesn’t usually kill eggs… extreme heat or cold will kill eggs of most insects/larvae but insecticdes, liquid, powder or gas will not.
If you’re going to treat woodworm, use woodworm treatment!
Rob
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The product I use is petroleum based, when dry it is colourless and odourless. Humans, house plants aquatic animals (fish) and pets need to be vacated for a minimum of 6 hours after treatment, then ventilate the rooms if you are intending going back in the same day. Mattresses, furnishings and anything that is likely to be put in your mouth (food, cooking utensils) all need to be covered or washed.
Hi @Rob_le_Pest I’ve just become aware of DWB as an issue while reviewing a survey on a house I’m interested in. I’ve read your comments and am heartened by the thought that I could overcome this as a problem, but I don’t understand the process. Can we communicate off-line about my next steps? Cheers, Stuart