The first I think is an obvious ‘yes’, but just in case: can one have multiple automatic HC circuits in a domestic tableau, each with its own HC switch but all three connected to one cable back to the Link? (eg, Water, EV and Pool)
The second - who decides how high one can go with the maximum kVA one can sign up to? I mean there must be a point where the overhead cable can/will max out, so I am guessing Octopus will tell me, yes? I currently have 15kVA, and will have soon a granny charger that I hope will satisfy my needs, but I may need to go up a notch to a 7kW and might consider a dedicated granny charger for the Gite as well, that will take me up to around 25kVA.
Yes to multiple HC devices. Now why would you want one for your pool? 247 is the best way to go as you probably already know.
Yes single phase limit as you listed subject to your cable being able to take it older were maxed at 12kw? For more than that you need more phases and that would no doubt get very expensive. Not all your draw of electricity at the same time? 25kw?
Correct! The Zodiac pump is doing a fine job 24h on low setting, but I am wondering in during the three month winter part, where day cleaning is not really necessary, I could save a little more running 8 hours HC… I do not know, it is only a hunch and for the sake of a couple of CBs and night switch, thought I might give it a go…
Again, no real thought other than in a perfect storm, I ‘could’ have a situation with three heat pumps, two ovens and two EVs asking for power together…
I might try it next week when the EV arrives, switch everything on one by one and see where it trips…
I really should manage things better and avail of my 13.5c HC cost. I have been a bit glib in the past saying oh, it is only 4 odd cents a kWH difference, until I look at the cost difference to fully charge the EV - a whole 2€ saving
Quite possibly, in reality if the temp falls far enough the coldest and therefore potentially freezing is a window of about 3-4 hours around 2am to 6am usually
For the EV, although I only plan to use a 3.6kW charger, for future planning though, I shall run the new circuit to the car port with 6mm cable (it is only a distance of 5M max) in case a 7.4 charger is needed. Will the ‘ordinary’ HC contactor take a 7.4kW load..?
Amplifying to some extent Coronas answer ..It is very feasible to have a number of devices which if operating simultaneously would over load the tariff setting on a Linky or fuse box ..and the solution is automatic priority switching. The better Level 2 charge points for EVs will have this built in .. They have inputs to current transformers which sense the current being drawn at any instant and will throttle back the flow to the EV connection. . Many of us get around the limitation of limited power by using timers on equipment ,..The dishwasher from 11 to 2 , the washing machine 2 to 4am , the tumble dryer 4 onwards ..
..Obviously you can only have one set of power leads coming from the Linky to your main switch board ..but what you do thereafter is your choice You can have any number of daughter distribution panels … .indeed you could have just 2 or 3 RCDs or Earth leakage trips in the main board and each with a single circuit breaker , rated below the current capacity of the wiring used in that loop.
That’s what I would do, and digital not analogue. Digital have an internal battery so if there is a power cut the settings are not lost unlike analogue
That’s what I would do, and digital not analogue. Digital has a battery and remembers settings in case of a power cut
Probably one for @Badger, although if not you could put in your own relay or a Shelley smart unit linked to the HC contactor switching just a small load. Anyway hopefully Badger will respond.
Actually, I have a white module still in the board from the old days when I had only 9kVA and trying to run an Aga and UFH - was it called a delesteur or something..? I then discovered that running the heat pump 24h was a cheaper and practical option by far. The Aga has since gone, I do not use UFH, so the module was disconnected!
I agree, but I have bad relationships with timers…
Interesting. I wanted to this some time back back but shelved the idea in favour of using a timer that I have since regretted as it keeps throwing a wobbly.
Is it ‘legal’ to have multiple PANELS sharing an HC contractor? How would an electrician know that a panel s/he is working on is really dead if, at any minute the HC supplied by another panel suddenly kicks in? Is it enough to put a clear warning notice in the daughter panel that this could happen..?
Just to make sure I am not overstepping the mark , I have looked at my distribution board in Ireland which is more fully featured …
Smart meter with fuse rated of 80Amps .. equivalent to Linky. When the Smart meter installed they allowed for expansion ..but my wiring was to an older standard of 63A
Distribution Main fuse 63A ..Slow Blow ..
RCBO / trip. …63A 30mA ..to everything
RCBO/trip …40 A 30 mA to HEAT Pump
RCBO /trip … 32A …to EV charge point
RCBO / trip .. 25A to Solar Panel inverter
Standard contact breaker MCB 32 A ..cooker
4 off standard 10Amp MCB ..Lights
6 off standard 20 Amp MCB.. sockets
Obviously if every circuit was running at full I would be drawing 150 Amps or more …
Of interest to you would be item #5 .. which specifies a 32A RCBO to the external Level 2 charge point .This cable is 6mm . Under Irish Regs there needs to be a cut off switch beside the charge point.
I would see that as utterly irresponsible .The feed should be switched off at the main panel ..so you would need any timer or priority control in full view .. labels fall off . How would an electrian or service person know that what they were working on would not become live ..They must be able to isolate and know it’s isolated …
Makes sense from a service/replacement point of view. I haven’t kept up with the UK regs that well so have to look up each point, I do the same for France and Badger has always been fantastic with his time and knowledge.
In reference to your comments on AGA etc … . Absolutely yes .. Heat pumps should be operating with zero impediments 24/7 for the entire heating system ..and in my case that means ensuring all radiators are open and all UFH loops are circulating water ..and let the computer in the Heat pump make the decisions …
But coming on to zoning power into various locations … The world has moved on and smart plugs working on house WiFi is now the way to go … Some are a cheap as mechanical timers of a decade ago and can be programmed to come on and off . I have played with them but just don’t need to use them at present ..Just proven that they work and are extremely cheap 10 euro … In fact the only timed power I use is to turn off the water system pressure pump at night as it makes a racket .The washing machines etc have their own delays ,and the EV charger ..and or the car can control themselves .
Not at all . I never said they could be switched off .. Sockets and equipment from a distribution board can have their power switched on or off AT THE DISTRIBUTION Board ..but switching the power TO a distribution board outside the control of the electrician is what is unacceptable . When any electrician is tasked with a socket with no power ..they will trace that back to the distribution board .. If they see a HC or Timer or Priority switch there ..no problem it’s within their competence . If they see no power on that panel , they assume it’s dead ..not sleeping . Distribution boards are made to be opened ..
