Nothing special, bu if you want it do do anything other that go up, you'll need a fan.
Really? No fancy pumps etc? Right, next visit to the brico, some lengths of copper pipe and a quick look in the depot vente to see if they have anything "hoody" which won't be a complete eyesore up on the lounge wall.
That's what we've done basically Val, it works a treat!
Gawd, it all looks so technical. Why do I have in my head that something simple, like an overhead hood to 'catch' the warm air with a pipe from the top pushed through the ceiling angled onto the landing would let some warm air upstairs? It sounds simple so is probably hazardous or illegal. Or completely ineffective.
I like the stove/insert idea and recently found an interesting system of a water jacket around the solid part of the lined chimney. Allegedly this can run 2 radiators.
The open fire idea in the link supplied by Terry, I cannot see passing the acceptable test as required by my “Bale of Rags” (OH).
Definately worth a bit of a play around with some 3/4 inch copper tube and a couple of connections. Hopefully, natural heating circulation will negate the requirement for any pump.
Valerie, if you're looking for a system that pushes the hot air from the fire around the house you could look here http://www.aeroval-concept.com/societe.html http://www.aeroval-concept.com/page2zephir.html. We have an older version of this at it works very well. The fan bit is in the roof space and is connected to the closed hood over the fireplace by large diameter pipes. As soon as the air from the fireplace tops a pre-set temperature the fan cuts in and blows the heated air down a series of other tubes which lead into the bathroom and the bedrooms.
Yes Norman, luckily our insurance agent is a classmate of our daughter's father and so is a 'friend' and his colleague straight as a die with us. When we had the Rayburn installed it was on advice that without the insurance does not cover you, for the rest see my 5 March 2012 post below.
Have your water pressure checked. Coincidentally we had a plumber today replacing with a shorter pipe and putting in a better reduction valve this morning. One problem we were having (if yours heats water) was with water pressure and yesterday I cleaned the stove and chimney totally, thoroughly and had a trial run. Two of our radiators failed to heat, both end of line, so I put off the ones in between and nothing. So I called him and he fitted us in today and did the work. Wow! I'll try the stove again in a day or two in case the radiators are not heating.
So Val that goes for you too. As James says, insulation. Above especially, walls lose too but because heat rises you can waste more energy than use. Draught exclusion as well but with a wood burner do not leave the house without air flow entirely or you are likely to do yourself harm with carbon dioxide or monoxide. Back boiler to radiators is brill if you have the insulation and water working well.
That should make a difference!
Had loft insulation put in last year (there was none at all) and next week am having two double glazed windows put in upstairs. The old single panes are rotten but am having to do it in instalments so our two bedrooms first. I'll leave the others shuttered over winter. Little by little...
Actually we sold that one and bought a used Invicta Modena. If your upstairs is cold I reckon you need better thermal and draught insulation first. No matter how efficient your burner if that heat is escaping :(
Thanks James. I'll look into the options. Heat doesn't seem to travel at all in our house - last winter the upstairs was subzero so had to use a paraffin heater. Well impressed with your find though and sounds as though you'll be making a big saving on wood.
The link was broken so I've removed it. A common way of moving the heat around is by ducting the heat from a closed box or cavity around the flue using inline fans in aluminium pipework. If you don't do that you will have to rely on the heat travelling room to room. If you have enough capacity in your wood burner and you house is well insulated it should work reasonably well. That's what we do here anyway.
Hi James, I tried the link to have a look but it's suggesting Jetmaster.com instead, the power wash system. Help. And question: how do you heat upstairs? I was thinking I'd have to buy a woodburner with back boiler to run rads upstairs.
Can I join (ever so belatedly) this conversation? Can anyone advise me on the Insurance situation with these units IF put in by either yourself, or someone 'non-qualified as a Chauffagiste'.
Yesterday we visited Invicta and Leroy Merlin in Brive (Malemort to be precise) and were told that if we had a fire and the stove had been put in by an unqualified person - and I fall into that category, the insurance would not pay out.
I know of three guys with loads of experience in this work, but not of them are 'qualified' in any sort of sense that I can understand - like what qualification? Who issues it? etc. I supect this is a rip-off with selected providers, but that could be my nasty mind.
Plus talking rip-offs, one of the other things that has stunned me is the blatant rip-off on these new bulbs - eco, energy saving, halogen, led and all that cobblers. All at ten times the price of the dear old ordinary bulbs that seemed to last forever in my houses, where these new things despite claims to the contrary do NOT last 8,000 hours or even 800 hours. Plus how do you prove anything without keeping the receipt for each bulb with a number and so on?
Yesterday was capped when asking for advice to be told that halogen do not last long in an on again off again environment! Eh? The others take 90 seconds to light up!
I can't believe it.
Our new wood pellet central heating system, backed up by solar for hot water, has done a brilliant job despite the coldest weather we've had since getting here 15 years ago, much more efficient than the oil-fired beast and almost certain to work out a lot cheaper to run. So far we've used about three tonnes of pellets which is half what the installers estimated. We've hardly had to use the wood fire which we lit every day with the old system so we're saving on wood as well. Big investment but worth it.
same boat jon and no complaints
james, imported a refurbished rayburn. it runs CH and boiler, plus cooks and (over - sometimes) heats the kitchen. ok hiatus in CH when boiler is depleted and solar not running (too cold in worst weather despite sun) but then put on power for 30 mins to rebalance. costs a fair bit of course, but there are very few comparable beasts unless going for things like jøtul models direct from skandi. our plumbers/installers worked to circuit diagrammes for thermostats, piping etc to the letter under my nose and eye. this winter was the big test and I give us 8.5 out of 10 given how much roof insulation we still need to do and that where I am at this moment is the farrest point from heating in the stove and I did not have even a -20 range day too cold in here... our plumber, heating man sells those units that use wood totally efficiently by converting to gas rather than simply burning, etc (which i cannot explain, but ask if you want the connection) which saves on the amounts of wood used, thus cost and environment and will be an investment in the future for sure. message is really: costly capital outlay saves from point of installation on - so pay then immediately save.