If I set it on Frostgel do I need to also set it on a # (Ie see dials above) I assume I choose h-gel and the #s are N/A on that setting? I am not there at the moment to play around with and it and Im trying to make as many notes as I can for future reference 
Thanks!
The idea is that you wrap the tape round vulnerable pipes, not the whole heat exchanger.
Itās something I might look into - our heat exchanger is outdoors, the pipes are well lagged but the āfrost protectā setting just runs the pump to keep water flowing, at least it does until the temperature in the thermal store drops too low (defined as below 17Ā°) - which it did in the very cold winter a couple of years ago.
Currently we have been popping over in late December to leave the system on with the thermostat set at 13Ā° - even that burns more electricity than Iād like.
1 Like
Ours is a Steibel WPL13ā¦and it lives in its own room in the barn which is very well insulated so the thing that freezes is the inner heat exchanger. So taping pipes is not our issue. Although having said that I did wondered whether taping all the pipes that emanate from the boilers would actually save a centime or two as the warm pipes are just heating an unused room?
Paul, following previous thread on heat pumps, we actually have senior engineer coming tomorrow to explain to us what settings have been used, and check whether these are right for us. Hopefully my new found knowledge on heat curves will be usefulā¦
The VMC should work, but it needs fresh air to work properly. The idea is that it removes some air and keeps the place fresh - BUT it needs fresh air coming in to do anything at all. Normally, only installed in kitchens and bathrooms, so perhaps not in every room?
My father had damp problems in a much newer house in North Yorkshire, the solution was to air the bedroom in question, as the ānewā double glazing had been installed without any air vents, so possibly yours have no vents either.
Our house in France was built just over 10 years ago to a high spec, VMC in all rooms with water (ie kitchen, utility and bathrooms), doors to all of these rooms not a tight seal as they need to let air in, and at least 2 windows in each room with a small air ventā¦
When we worked overseas and left a house empty for 9 months over the winter, we had a cleaner pop in once a month - run all the taps, showers etc, flush the loos, clean any room that required it, and generally inspect everywhere. Central heating left on frost setting only, and hot water turned off.
So a very well insulated room drops to -20C? Yes of course the heat exchanger, as it has water in it, you are not using antifreeze? heat tapes on the in and out pipes close to the unit would make a difference and more than a few centimes compared to needlessly running the heating in an empty space.
You could even simply install drain off protection for the unit without having to empty the whole system, which if it really drops that cold would need antifreeze anyway??
They can supply fresh air as well which is the type to go for to manage the humidity and healthier ventilation.
I will have to research what type I haveā¦
Yes based on invoices I have from the prior owner, windows are double glazed. NOt sure about vents - I will have to check when I go back over. The windows were put in in 2004
Yes - the VMC outlets are in the 2 bathrooms and I believe also the top (3rd fl us, 2nd fl Europe)
Thanks for the info!
But the air that the pump is drawing in is -20, so the poor dear struggles and if we leave it on hors gel it freezes.