No, thats a bit weak and will make a horrible mess when you try to paint it. 20 - 25% water (1 part water to 4 parts paint) should be ok
Thanks. Nice to speak to an expert!
Here we are… I can offer you a few options, depending on which tone well with your existing floor tiles and which appeals to you and your family.
- All the cabinets in warm grey + walls warm white. Syntilor is a good brand and I think the correct finish
Or,
- With truer white (not so warm) walls
- If you want a bolder alternative - Paint the lower cabinets in grey (or dark blue, or dark green, and the upper wall cabinets white or warmer white. Pulling in a stronger colour needs to relate to your living area, which it overlooks.
- I found this rather brave colour that would work well for the lower cabinets, along with white for the top cabinets and walls
You can see your stainless steel cooker and things are absolutely no problem.
I would recommend however, that you remove the busy little escutcheon type fittings and replace them with other handles. The hinges are fine in steel as it looks they are.
NB. I don’t know if you are thinking to paint / re-fresh the wooden entrance door frames? If leaving as it is, and assuming it is white, you need to check if the white has ‘aged’. A brilliant white in the kitchen can make the older paint look very tired becaue white does yellow over time.
Et voilà!
Let me know if you have more queries
Hi. i really recommend Fusion Mineral paint.depending where you live there are suppliers in France.i have used it for lots of furniture , it’s very hard wearing .there is lots of advice on their face book group , .’paint it beautiful’ and Fusion have lots of useful You Tube videos.
I would say that the most important part is de - greasing the cupboards really well and a very good brush.
https://fusionmineralpaint.eu/where-to-buy/
I used La deuxième chance .
Painting the cabinets will make such a difference.
This looks a lovely product!
I heartily agree with Mark. Some (many) French epoxy paints sold as being for kitchens can really peel if in any way scratched.
I have used it a lot . You can use it without a top coat but for kitchen cabinets I did a water based poly .
I returned to LM today, fuss free return of the green tester, no questions asked. Was actually very impressed, sign up saying 6 month returns and 12 months in some cases! Lady in front of me was returning left over stuff from a flooring job and got €120 back, again no questions asked!
I have now at @Susannah (thanks so much for your help!!) suggestion got this tester
https://www.leroymerlin.fr/produits/revetement-sol-et-mur/peinture-interieure/peinture-par-piece/peinture-salle-de-bains/peinture-carrelage/peinture-carrelage-mur/peinture-cuisine-multisupport-syntilor-gris-alu-satine-0-5-l-80035823.html
Already just from the small patch on the bottle it seems to reflect light rather than suck it in like the green did. Hopefully have time to paint out test post on the weekend
Oh and here is the offending current situation! Excuse the mess, cooking dinner, and the sticks, hubby did some trimming and its getting fed into the wood burner!
That’s a similar colour to the LM kitchen we put in to the cottage , that I made the extra units for and colour matched, this gives you an idea of how the colour looks.
https://www.leroymerlin.fr/produits/cuisine/cuisine-equipee-delinia-id/cuisine-oleron/
Looks really good! Where did you get the handles for the extra units you made?
Leroy’s, only thing I wouldn’t do again is the arch, it took 3 weeks to cut through, I was younger and fitter then
We have used that paint on everything, cupboards, doors, stairs, radiators, skirting…
@toryroo , well done with the sample pots at LM. A good omen!
Also love the handles suggested by @Griffin36. It is really coming together.
Looking at the photo you posted, I am wondering. Is the end wall behind the log burner raw brick or tiled? Are you thinking of painting it? Not so hard to mask the stove pipe to protect it from paint. If you paint the wall white it would really help lighten the room + the stove black contrast against the white ground would pop.
Something else that would really lighten and modernise the room would be to white paint the ceiling, beams and all.
Remember to check the white paint you want to match against the existing splash back tiles.
Think if the lovely Easter ahead!
ooking at the photo you posted, I am wondering. Is the end wall behind the log burner raw brick or tiled? Are you thinking of painting it? N
They are awful and YES I asked advice ages ago, I think before you were posting
I’m starting a separate thread to my gardening one as an ongoing questions thread. I often think ‘someone on SF might have an idea for that’! My back terrace has those small , coloured, concrete pavers on it. I’d be fine with them if they were the cream colour but they are a mix of red an yellow which is not nice. To top it off the edging is nasty shiny bricks (I suspect the heat ones used behind the woodburner - next question!) and the steps (it is on 3 levels) are made of those big nasty pebbledash pavers . In total it is quite a large area, probably 30m2 so at 30€/m a lot to just replace (plus it needs widening! My only 2 ideas are some sort of chaux mix to cover the lot but no idea if that would a/ work b/ withstand walking on. Second trying to make pavers with chaux / white ciment and calcaire 6/10 for a fake limestone look. No idea how realistic this would be or how much work. Any ideas, suggestions, thoughts on the terrace issue gratefully received. Photos on …
Calling @Badger woop woop code 1 emergency re-wire required in Département 72
Kitchen looks good though.
I see the same problem with the sink as I had with the original in my place.
Because the sink is not set into a full width w/top with a cut-out but has a gap at each end, water inevitably gets down the gap at the ends of the drainers. The result, with me, was that the bases of the units - the sink unit and the one either side of - were completely rotted out and had not collapsed on account of being held up by plumbing!
It took some years to get to this state but the process will begin with the first splosh that goes down the gap. You don’t want it to even start.
Ise Griff36’s sink is installed the same way.
Every now and again it’s inevitable that a great swoosh of water is going to flood across the end of the drainer and a lot of it will turn south, down the gap. You might not even notice it happening.
Maybe these gaps are sealed. I don’t see that they are. The upstands at the ends, in Tory’s case, will help but water in those gaps must end up somewhere on the floor.
True. I had stainless on the hob side of a kitchen. Impossible to avoid scratches and smearing. Recommended only for top-level hygiene installations.
Please help !!!
The photographer in this case apologised for the quality of the photo but you can see that the pipes are black.
Probably black to give off more heat but think that turned out to be a myth.
Is it paint or vitrified enamel?
I’ll ask about the material.
As for ‘a myth’ I think not. A black body absorbs more IR than a body of any other colour. When the temp of the body is higher than ambient it radiates IR back into the cosmos. If a black body has absorbed more heat than, say, a white or ‘silver’ [raw steel, like @toryroo’s ] it will give back more of what the stove produced by way of exhaust gas heat than the steel one [until both are at ambient]
Virtually all these stoves are black and that’s one reason why.
Hmmm, work in progress, hopefully.
Someone needs to get ENEDIS to put a Linky in & get rid of that ancient main disjoncteur.