Electric sockets

Property & Home
1

Quick question. How high should electric sockets be (a) above floor (b) above a kitchen work top?

And how far from (d) a sink and (d) a cooker?

Are sockets for fridge, dishwasher, washing machine and dryer normally behind the machine or above it especially if the machine is under a work top? Are they sockets or fused spurs?

Ideally someone who actually knows the regulations might give me their advice please :folded_hands:

Thanks, Mike.

2

In the best tradition of answering a different question to that asked, I would highly recommend buying this book if you’re going to do any serious electrical work.

In no way intended to be snarky, but your question about a fused spur suggests that you might need to go back to first principles as it’s quite different from the UK and fused spurs aren’t a thing here.

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3

Google AI Overview,

In France, the official standard (NF C 15-100) specifies both minimum and maximum heights for electrical sockets, depending on the location:

  • General Sockets (living areas, bedrooms, etc.): Must be installed at least 5 cm from the floor. There is no official maximum height for these sockets in general rooms, but they are typically placed around 30 cm to 45 cm for convenience and to avoid excessive cable bending.
  • Bathroom Sockets: The center of bathroom sockets must be at least 5 cm from the floor and no more than 1.3 m high.
  • Kitchen Sockets: Sockets above a worktop are common. A socket for a cooker hood must be at least 1.8 m above the floor. Sockets are not permitted above the sink, a fire, or a hob.
  • Exterior Sockets: Any external sockets must be positioned at least 1 m from the ground.
  • Switches: Light switches must be positioned between 0.9 m and 1.3 m from the floor.

These regulations are part of the French electrical standards and must be adhered to, especially for new construction or major renovations that require approval by the independent body

4

Hmmm, looking at my external sockets that are about 1cm from the ground. I guess the installer didn’t work in metric and it’s another job to add to the list.

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5

All our external sockets are at are about a foot (in old money) off the ground. That seems a sensible height. What surprised me was beimg allowed sockets (apart from shaver) in bathrooms at all.

6

Indeed, though on the scale of worrying electrical things seen in France, it’s quite a long way down the list. :scream:

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7

Professional (retired) electrician here…

What has been said above is generally correct but please note…

The measurements mentioned above are to the horizontal centre of the socket i.e. the line made by the two outlet holes.

The 1,3m maximum applies in all areas, except when sockets are placed for specific reasons, such as behind a wall mounted TV. Ideally high level sockets will be above 1,8m.

Yes, sockets for major appliances can be behind them, but there’s no reason for them not to be placed to one side, maybe at the back of an adjacent cupboard. Depending on your depth of worktops &/or model of appliance you might find there are space issues with having a socket directly behind.

There’s no specific height above a worktop but you if you are tiling it’s a good idea to position them to make tile cuts sensible/symmetrical. If it wasn’t specified I used to aim for 0,2m above finished worktop level, which would equate to 1,1m from floor level with a standard 0,9m worktop height.

I also used to set light switches at 1,1m so that they formed a level line if near to a worktop. I’d often find it was better to fit light switches in the same back box as over worktop sockets e.g. a triple box with one poste for one or two switches with the other two postes for a double socket, all very much neater & less work than multiple separate boxes.

8

Since the advent of 30mA différentiels for all final circuits this is no longer a credible problem. They can still only be positioned in Volume 2, which is a sensible compromise.

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9

Regarding sockets it’s worth noting the following regulations about the number of outlets allowed per circuit. This changed a good few years ago but bar-room experts will still tell you the old/wrong things.

  1. Fuses (rewireable or cartridge) of any kind are now prohibited. All circuits must have overload protection provided by a suitable disjoncteur (MCB in UK terms).
  2. General power (socket )circuits are usually run using 2,5mm² conductors, but 1,5mm² is allowable.
  3. General power circuits via 2,5mm² can have up to 12 outlets supplied via max. 20A disjoncteur, but IMO should be 16A max. Every outlet counts as one, so 12 outlets can be 12 x singles, or 6 x doubles, 4 x triples etc. or a mix, as long as the total is 12 or below.
  4. General power circuits via 1,5mm² can have up to 8 outlets supplied via max. 16A disjoncteur. Every outlet counts as one, so 8 outlets can be 8 x singles, or 4 x doubles etc. as long as the total is 8 or below.
  5. A kitchen must have it’s own power circuit of 6 outlets, at least 4 of which must be above the worktop. Additional outlets can be via more general circuits.
  6. Major appliances/items require their own dedicated circuit using 2,5mm² conductors, protected at 20A max. (but IMO 16A max. if the outlet is a socket). Such things include washing machines, tumble driers, dishwashers, water heaters (no socket allowed, must be hard wired).

I could go on but it’s all in the excellent book that @JohnH linked to above. I urge you to buy a copy.

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10

Badger - please, while you are here, confirm for me the size of cable to power a (230V) 3700W motor over 75M, assuming it is single cores in flexi conduit on the ground? I am getting a figure of 4mm2 from a couple of the cable suppliers calculators, but 4mm seems small to me…

(I need a new log splitter. Normally I would have a PTO driven one, but the constant sound of a tractor at 2500rpm all morning is head numbing, and wonder if I do not get an electro/hydraulic one instead…)

Thanks!

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Badger will be along with a more reliable opinion - but, 3.7kW is just under 18A at 230V and a PF of 0.9

4mm2 in conduit is rated for 32A.

I wouldn’t think temperature rise would be an issue if it’s in the ground so I don’t think you’ll need to derate for that.

Voltage drop is about 11mV per amp per metre so 75x18x0.011 = 14V which is on the high side.

ISTR Badger’s rule of thumb is a couple of percent voltage drop which would mean looking at 10mm2 for 6v drop.

12

10mm ‘looks’ better, although a couple of other online calculaters also return 4mm to my question as well.

It could though be academic, as all the single phase splitters that I can find are 8 or 9T. I’d prefer 14T, so maybe a tractor mounted is better despite the noise.

13

For outside use singles in ICTA conduit is not allowed. If permanent it needs to be R02V cable either fixed to a structure or if buried it needs to be in red gaine.

I‘ll deal with volt drop tomorrow.

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14

Thanks to everyone who contributed and especially to @Badger for your expert advice. :+1:

15

Please remember that flexi conduit is not UV stable, if you must pass on the ground, use tube as a desperate last measure. As mentioned, cable and gaine should be red and buried.

16

Concentrating too much on the sizing (which still might not be right) and completely forgot the obvious - if buried needs to be armoured, and appropriately identified, as Badger points out.

I did say his advice would be more reliable :slight_smile:

17

Armoured cable is not widely used in France & there is no requirement to use it underground but R02V cable must be in protective red gaine & buried at least 500mm deep (850mm if under vehicular access) & have a red plastic ‘grillage d’avertissement’ 200mm above the buried gaine.

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