Sounds like heating a professional in will be the best in the long run.
You might be able to trace the cable by turning all other circuits off at the tableau and using a non contact mains indicator to follow the live.
Sounds like heating a professional in will be the best in the long run.
You might be able to trace the cable by turning all other circuits off at the tableau and using a non contact mains indicator to follow the live.
Sounds like a break in the neutral if the house is single phase probably not much or a problem putting another in parallel, if 3 phase it may cause problems. The only real way to locate the problem will be to isolate drop the neutral on the dedicated disconnectuer and test continuity at each point and using a flying lead to create a loop for testing. Hope this makes sense
Cheers
Tim
Are you anywhere near 79170, if yes I could have a look and sort it.
No charge, retired spark with lots of spare time on my hands.
no i am in 46700
Have you got 230V across the L and N of the concerned circuit breaker.
If NO
Problem is damaged circuit breaker or loose or burnt input N terminal.
If YES
Problem is with neutral cable between circuit breaker and first socket.
Check termination at both ends is good making sure they not terminated on the insulation in error.
Check if circuit passes through any junction boxes, if it does check all connections.
Good luck
A sort of related questionâŚjust installing LED ceiling lights instead of Halogen. Have bought some of these âsnapâ connectors (attached).
QuestionâŚthere are two inlets under live and two under neutral. Under each pair of those is a further hole that doesnât seem to do anything.
Do I just wire into one of the pair under each live and neutral?

âŚalsoâŚwhen wires are in position the plastic cover doesnât really snap shut very securely as there is no space for the wires if fully closedâŚ
Itâs a loop through if there are other lights off the same switch
So, yes, just use one connection each side (one for L, one for N).
A cable tie, to keep it closed?
ThanksâŚyeahâŚcoming to same conclusionâŚcable tie or tape.
I am also finding that if one has to pull the wires out of the snap connectors, they donât hold tight when you insert them again!
Did you push the tabs down to release the wire.
Yes, keep your professionals warm, they do better work that way. ![]()
Why is Billy talking like Yoda?
NoâŚI pulled them upâŚwhich is to openâŚ?
Predictive text, the problem is.
They almost certainly push down to release the wire
Marooned on Degobah he is, to talk to no-one he has except himself ![]()
You are correctâŚ(!) Also I was pulling them open to insert the wire then pressing them back down. A few simple instructions would have been handyâŚthere now though - thanks all
Late to the show, concerning the closure you may find pre-defined cut indicators on the plastic that allow the top & bottom to snap shut.

So does one have to remove themâŚbecause they are solidâŚthey donât bend.
Another questionâŚnow that I have renewed all the connections at the point of coming through the ceiling I am getting power through (using a toolâŚ). I was going to remove the transformers associated with the old halogen lights as I thought they were causing the fault.y. Can I leave these transformers in place and still use GU10 LED bulbs (no transformers neededâŚ) instead of the halogen ones.
They act as a cord grip, if you can push them inwards and the close it acts as a restraint from pulling the cable out easily (in theory)