Depends which i5 exactly - I do like these, and the Dell equivalent, I have an Optiplex 3070 with an i5-9500T CPU (6 cores 6 threads) and a Lenovo <mumble, can’t remember> with an i5-6600T. The former as my main PC in France and the latter as my wife’s PC in the UK.
But they do use the low power “T” versions of the CPUs so lack a bit of grunt compared with the desktop parts.
I think it depends on your area. Where we live there is an organisation called ARRU which will accept your sort of equipment. They will either then sell it and the proceeds go to several charities in the are or if not saleable, will ensure that it is disposed of correctly. Here’s a link to our local one:
There is nowt so confusing as Adobe’s naming of their apps. I have
On my account page it does not refer to the app by any name. It just tells me what I get, which is everything.
Lr Classic is defunct, it is no more, it has gone … etc
And yet
It lives on as a cloud based app.
I got in at €11.99/pm just days before they upped it to €14.99
And as far as I’m aware all the iterations of Lightroom/PS are cloud based now. The difference is that now I believe ALL the iterations allow for local storage. Up till v recently only the PC/20Gb cloud storage version - that used to be called Lr Classic - allowed local storage.
As Peter Cook so rightly said “Could confuse a stupid person, Dud”
Depends what you mean by “cloud based”. 
I think the version they call just “Lightroom” stores your work in the cloud, whereas “Lightroom Classic” uses local computer storage.
https://www.adobe.com/uk/products/photoshop-lightroom-classic/lightroom-cc-vs-lightroom-classic.html
I’ve never bothered with the cloudy one as LR Classic has a bigger feature set and is what I’ve always used on my Macs, since I switched over from Phase One’s Capture One.
Yes you can use LR Classic with cloud storage but otherwise it is firmly earthbound.
And no LR Classic is by no means defunct. I don’t know what “system incompatible” means in your case (it may want a more up to date OS) but LR Classic does prefer fairly beefy hardware (especially in terms of the graphics coprocessor) whereas plain vanilla Lightroom is designed to work on iPhones and iPads and has a dumbed-down interface as a result.
Ditto Photoshop - I have an extremely terrestrial version of that and ignore the Toytown cumulonimbus version.
You could also buy an empty SSD case from Amazon and use it as a back-up drive for your new computer. I have just bought an M4 Mac mini as my previous 10 year old model was starting to have issues. It is suiting the children for their homework now. The laptop I am writing on now is a 2013 MacBook Air and it is fine if not pushed. Looking forward to upgrading shortly. I don’t get on with Windows, but do have an old model somewhere.
Someone knowledgeable please enlighten me, I was always of the belief that regardless of you wiping your data from phones, laptops etc, the data still remains on the hard drive or phone and to someone determined enough, this data can be retrieved. I would be glad to be proved wrong, but to date, Before sending my old phones etc for recycling, I have always dismantled them and destroyed the hard drive/ or what I perceive to be the flash memory. Am I wrong?
You can get software to ‘security erase’ both hard drives and SSDs. This should ensure that no information is recoverable. For hard drives this should write data patterns to all areas of the disk a multiple number of times, not just those that show as having data allocated to them. This should work very well.
Unless you are on the wrong side of a states security services, who have access to sophisticated facilities which cost hundreds of millions of EuroPounds to possibly get to your data, then I think secure erase software would be just fine.
I think the multiple overwrite of random data method works on SSD, but magnetic media (HDDs) can have old data read from them by other means by someone with the correct (hard to obtain and crazy expensive) kit.
I believe a iOS “Erase all contents and settings” cycle does exactly that and I never heard of an Apple internal tool that could recover data from an iPhone erased this way as this would have been very useful on several occasions when test devices were wiped before all test info had been retrieved.
You could just leave the item plugged in to the mains either during a storm or whenever EDF keep pulsing the main supply, seems to bugger most electronics
To answer the last bit of your question first - no, if you really want to be secure destruction of the device or drive is the only way to go.
To move to the start of your question - a drive has two types of data - the “housekeeping” data (directories, lists of which blocks on the disk taken together contain the data for a file, that sort of thing) and the data in the files themselves. When you “format” a drive it is just the housekeeping that gets re-written with a fresh set, the underlying data blocks are untouched and can be retrieved with the right software.
There are, as @hairbear says “secure erase” programs that clear out all of the drive so wiping the data completely. Personally I just write zeros to the drive then, if I want to sell it, write random data and reformat.
There is a slight caveat as modern drives usually have a little spare capacity which they can bring into use if part of the disk surface is damaged and theoretically old data could be retrieved from such an area which is not used but you would need very low level tools and to get lucky to find anything interesting.
There was, for early drives, the theory that you could look at data written on the edges of the “official” tracks or underneath the surface - the idea being that magnetism slowly built up through the oxide layers and you might be able to “drill down” as if on an archaeological dig on a microscopic scale to read older data. I’m not sure this was ever real but it isn’t for modern drives - tracks are packed tightly and the data is barely able to be retrieved even in normal use (much use of error correction is made to get around this).
Phones are harder - you have less control of what the OS is going to overwrite, or not and there isn’t a physical drive to remove. But old phones are pretty worthless so destroying them is the way if you want to be sure data is not going to leak. Well, old phones are worthless if, as I do, you try to change your phone not more often than once every three years or more - the modern trend of swapping to the latest and greatest every year does yield devices with some sort of resale value.
I think I will carry on with the destruction as anything more than a factory reset is beyond me.
Before donating, make absolutely sure you’ve wiped all personal data thoroughly. There are free tools that can help with secure erasure. Good luck with finding a new home for your old laptop!
Put them in the microwave 
@Jofang never did say what model his old laptop was
It is an HP Probook 470 G3.
Man…6th generation i7 …that’s better than anything I use…lol
So, not officially supported but manual install might be possible- upgrade definitely not supported and you would be on your own should you run into any issues. The biggest problem that I foresee is that it’s only a 2-core processor despite the “i7” designation.
Value on eBay - €200 - €250;cost of new, similar**, laptop - let’s say €550-€650
Given that would would be unsupported by M$ whether you install W11 or stick with W10 I would personally opt for the latter with 3rd party browser and anti-virus, or install Linux.
**: As in similar position in the marketplace.
2 cores, 4 threads and max turbo of 3.1GHz - an i7-4770K would probably run rings around it despite being two generations older.
Funnily enough I’ve just picked one of these up myself, to replace my Raspberry Pi that I use as a media centre / Plex server. Mine is a Ryzen one, an M715Q iirc, ‘only’ 16GB although I might chuck some more in if it needs it but considering the Pi only has 8GB then I think it should be OK.
Mine was from Amazon. Where’d you buy yours?
EBAY. A German seller. For reasons not particulary rooted in the real world I tend to regard German ebay sellers as up to snuff. They certainly give chapter and verse + descant for the specs and condition of their kit.
Access to the app is via the cloud. IE you don’t get to do the do unlessyou log on to yr a/c.
Things hae changed A LOT in recent weeks theith Adobe and its stuff. I suggestyou check it out.You will then be as bewlidered as me and everybody else as to what is called what and where and … 
