Plasterboarding a block and beam ceiling

I need to plasterboard over an existing high textured ceiling, and need to know if I can buy lightweight plasterboard in France? Also what would you suggest to use ? I was planning on FP3, as its a strong quick drying plaster. Any advice welcome as I am a DIYer.

Are you going to be doing it on your own or with help and is it a large area.

about 50m sq and was planning to use a plasterboard lifter

That is what I was going to suggest, it makes life so much easier.
This is what I use.
https://www.leroymerlin.fr/produits/materiaux/cloison-et-plafond/plaque-de-platre/plaque-de-platre-ba-10-h-250-x-l-120-cm-standard-ce-knauf-65331546.html

You havent decribed what you intend to do that well, are you taping and jointing or intending to skim the boards?
Fast setting is not fast drying so you still have to wait before you can work the area. Generally slow setting is a bit kinder for diy’s but you havent said how much of this you have done before.
A really good plaster is,

I think Knauf have just introduced a lightweight (lighter) plasterboard in France- Horizon 4 I think. No idea of stockists though. Agree with @Corona about Lutece 2000

I am going to just tape and skim the joints, problem is that the existing plaster is only around 5 mm thick, so I can’t use screws to hold, so I am just relying on the glue (FP3) to keep it attached to the ceiling, and that takes a while for the boards to adhere, so I can’t just move on to the next board until the first is dry enough to hold it.

Can you afford to lose ceiling height? if so can you make a framework to attach your boards to.

In reality it’s a lot easier with two but…you can knock up a simple timber square and then prop it with 4-6 verticals - then move onto the next board with the lifter. It’s bloody chaotic by the third board with props everywhere.

Cut the props a bit long and hammer them tightish- they won’t be vertical but with 6 you get quite even pressure - and don’t go nuts with the hammer - the square will indent the board if you go too firm.

Use the proper system of suspentes et fourrures which will then allow you to easily insulate, & also remove the need for any drying time.

There are special suspentes that can be hammered into the gap between the blocks, but IMHO it’s better to drill for plugs that take M6 studding/tige filetée & then use cavaliers on that so that leveling is very easy.

Not all plaster board lifters are equal, so do check that the one you are buying/borrowing/hiring does the height you require.

That depends on height, as I said before.

Well, the OP said it was high, so unless there are windows that create issues then they probably have the height, but none of us can know for sure (apart from the OP).

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After reading through this tread I’m not sure why you want to plaster board over the exiting ceiling’ but I certainly wouldn’t recomend dob and dap sticking method. I would recomend as others have using fixed rails with 40cm centres and screw the boards up onto them. Or if the plastered artex type finish is solid just replaster over it, if there are any cracks in the exisiting finish scrap out refill use scrim tape then re plaster to the finsh required.
Here’s a link for DIY’ers