If you want to use headphones with your new Smart TV, please, please buy one with a headphone socket.
Bluetooth headphones cause noticeable audio delay, especially when using streaming services such as Netflix (have been engaged in work-around for 3 different Smart TVs sans headphone socket so far).
Thank you, sounds just what I need, I think, but that price blew me away, almost €300. 
But then I saw another one at over €800.
Even more bizarre is the one which is only €50 odd. 
The TV I have is flat screen and quite large, 2nd hand from a friend for €25. It works quite well but is temperamental and I am not sure it would work with a soundbar so probably best to stick with what I have.
@billybutcher now you mention it I do know what Sky Glass is because I have seen the advert and, along with the Firestick, do not feel the need. 
I have no idea what category our large flatscreen or small flatscreen fall into, before them the last one we had a rounded screen and a great big ‘bustle’ behind.
If it was made before about 2010 and is 4" or more thick and weighs a ton, probably plasma.
If 2" thick or less, probably an LCD
If 2nd hand for 25€ from a friend, probably not OLED 
(unless you have some very good friends).
These days we find the catch-up and on-line services (specifically Prime which is the only one I actually pay for) indespensible because there is naff all on otherwise.
Agreed. Our Samsung Smart TV (which often has a mind of its own) plays YouTube quite well and connects seamlessly with our Synology NAS where we have a number of .mp4 videos stored for our own selection of viewing.
And there was me thinking the question was about ditching televison or not. 
The big one (€25) is just under 4" and was given to us by a friend who didn’t want it, she only suggested money when we pressed her to.
The smaller one, bought here in France some years ago is 2.5 inches thick. It is more modern but is unused these days as it is much smaller.
We do not have a need for catchup. Very rarely if something is on too late that I don’t want to miss (the longer repeat of HYGNFY where the subtitles actually sync with the speech (I can’t follow the original with people talking at the same time)), I switch from Manhattan to Humax and set it to record. Only problem is that the TV seems to object to being switched off when everything else is running and throws a hissy fit in the morning in refusing to switch on. 
I now have the answer, kindly provided on here, take the batteries out of the remote, press 0 and OK at the same time for a few seconds then try again with batteries replaced. No idea why but it seems to placate the delicate soul.
The only reason I can think of that might explain why that works is that the battery contacts are unreliable, and the act of removing & replacing them makes the contact again for a while.
The Humax remotes have a Multi-Code function where they can control other AV devices such as TVs. The problem is that implementation of this feature is a bit sketchy and the Humax remotes can forget which IR code they should be using to control the Humax box itself.
Batteries out > 0 + OK > Batteries in : issue cleared
Ah, that explains why taking the batteries out and re-inserting them might help.
Not sure what the 0+OK business is about - unless, it makes the remote’s electronics wake up and try to light the IR LED, thus ensuring that any supply smoothing capacitors are discharged and a full reset occurs.
In which case any button should do.
As you say, it’s to discharge all energy stored in the Humax remote’s circuitry to ensure a full reset.
Highly likely that other key combinations might achieve the same result, I just quoted the combination I found on the Humax forums that worked for me.
OK, there’s a lot of random stuff on the 'net though of people claiming such and such works with 0% idea why.
Most remote store the codes to allow fresh batteries to be put in without the need to add all the codes again, usually like Sky remotes etc need to have new batteries within 5-10 minutes. Must be some stored energy but if a simple button press would discharge it then a lot of people would have to re-code their remotes.
Not necessarily - there are lots of suitable memory technologies that do not need power applied to retain their contents.
True, Eprom etc but why would they lose their programming after 5-10 minutes?
Strictly EPROM wouldn’t be suitable as it is write-once - most microcontrollers which have non-volatile memory use EEPROM but flash and (more rarely) FRAM could be used.
Possibly because they are relying, as you suggested, on volatile SRAM and a capacitor to keep the supply voltage high enough as batteries are changed.
I only meant that there were more robust alternatives than putting in a slightly too-beefy smoothing capacitor and hoping people only take a few seconds over a battery change.
In the case of the Humax remote it sounds like it is more a question of resetting the microprocessor rather than clearing stored codes from memory.
Thank you for all the replies. I’ve actually managed to find a more helpful tv repairman, who is happy to take a look. He spoke knowledgeably about the subject, so I’m going to give him a try. I’ve already bought 3 additional remotes, in a vain attempt to fix the problem, so that’s why I thought it might be the sensor. Apparently the fact that it works intermittently suggests not, so hopefully he can identify and sort the problem. I know most people would probably just replace it with something more modern, but I hate that everything’s so disposable these days and I’m a recycling, upcycling kind of girl. For now I’m going to try and attempt a repair, but its reassuring to know that if I have to buy a tv in the UK, it will work in France.
Not always - the audio/video data frequency separation in the transmitted UHF signal (non digital transmission) is different U.K. to France I am told. My old portable in my motorhome received picture but not sound when I got to France. Still works fine in U.K.
That was true for old analogue transmissions but digital ones are completely compatible as long as you have a newish set (France switched over to all channels being HD a few years back so older sets that were SD only might not understand the compression).
Edit: Ok, compression *and* modulation thinking about it but that’s a generational thing (DVB2 vs DVB), not a France vs UK thing.
Older DVB-T and DVB-T2 compatible televisions should both be OK. Some had issues with EPGs, although they really should not have as DVB-SI is a standard as well. It’s either sloppy programming by the TV manufacturer or the broadcaster not following or not completely implementing the standard.
You would be suprised (or maybe not) at the terrible support in TVs for various standards. HDMI was always the worst. We had to implement dozens and dozens of individual software workarounds in our STBs for HDMI to work around various manufacturers screwups.
Trust me, I wouldn’t