No it doesn’t!
OH has a pair similar to this… absolutely marvellous he reckons… for so many DIY things…
Which are not under water or drenched.
Normal PVA breaks down when wet. There are modified formulas like Sika waterproof out door use PVA which is getting more common than the older PVA, probably in response to many earlier failed projects. Shower proof tile cement is not the same as constant immersion swimming pool tile adhesive. Even the matting on the back of mosaics can be glued to the tiles with PVA and many have failed in swimming pools.
Much easier to use the correct product first time.
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Not my experience but not getting into a pointless argument!
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Welcome to the internet, where people are always 100% correct in their own comments, and everyone else is completely wrong and must be told so as often and patronisingly as possible. It seems like some people live for pointless arguments! 
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Except my pointless post (no argument) is based on 20 years in the swimming pool industry predominently fixing others mistakes with the addition of many years in property management doing the same.
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Well good for you, but my point certainly wasn’t referencing you in any way shape or form. It was, as I thought was very obvious, a general comment about people squabbling on the internet. It seems like the sole purpose of so many is to pontificate and squabble on the likes of Twitter. Aside from anything if it was a dig at you I’d chosen one of the many many things you’re an armchair expert at to make the dig, instead of the one you actually know about.*
*This is also to be taken as a slightly caustic bit of ribbing, nothing more. Your varied knowledge is very impressive.
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I know that photos can be deceptive, but to me, it looks a bit difficult to visually determine where the edge of the surround actually is from the viewpoint of not loosing one’s footing in a wet shower.
Have you considered having the mosaic of the surround a different colour to that of the shower tray itself. I’m just thinking that it might be safer to be able to see where the edge of the surround is more clearly, especially for folks like me who have to take their glasses off before getting into the shower.
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Good point…
Sadly we had to raise part of the bathroom flooring, just sufficient to accomodate the plumbing for the shower and toilet. Thus ended up with a slightly split-level bathroom.
OH put a different colour tile along the edge of the raised section, highlighting the "possible hazard… and it works well and so far (fingers crossed) no-one has tripped or even stumbled… hurrah. (and we do have grab rails/towel rails strategically placed)
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If I had massive knees I wouldn’t be boasting about it on here…
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SteveG and Corona. I appreciate the advice and comments you are making re my project. However, your late disagreement has left me entirely foxed. 
“No it doesn’t!” It? What it? It doesn’t what?
I’d like to know what “so many things”. The only reason I can think of is when I have to kneel down…
The photo doesn’t show that at all well, the mosaic pattern itself contributing to that. But in real life, that shower tray is quite deep - about 120mm - and quite spacious. I haven’t measured it but I’d guess 600mm sq. The dims are the only thing to recommend it. 
And I think, when it comes to actually installing the tiles, the ‘break’ from level to down the side of the tray will show up as a straight white line the length of the tray. There’s an example of this on the left side. I don’t think it would be good idea to have a piece see-sawing on the lip.
Ha ha… you might find they do come in useful quite unexpectedly.
Using ducktape, OH has fitted 'em to the top corners of my lounger. then when some thoughtless person (not me of course 
) flings said lounger into full-recline mode so they can doze in the sun… and they’ve got the lounger too close to the wall… said wall doesn’t get bashed and neither do the loungers. 
He used bubble-wrap last year, but reckons that’s been chucked out …
It relates to the use of PVA as the UK’s panacea for everything which it is not. Like all things they have their uses, used correctly in the right place fine but used in the wrong place you"ll end up re doing a job and may make the repair more costly. Simply put, use the right product in the right place and do the job once right first time. I have sacked plasterers who sealed lime plastered walls with PVA meaning the whole wall had to be stripped back and done again. I have replaced shower surrounds where PVA has broken down and allowed water to ingress into areas it shouldnt. As I covered earlier people like Sika modified the formulation to make external waterproof versions which is probably so knuckle headed builders cant get it wrong. What and how you choose to carry out your work is your decision but at least you have some tips.
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The party wall of my house in Brsl was so wet, from problems with the neighbour - the damp-proof guy’s meter was still showing red at 1m above the floor.
It was decided that the standard injection system was not going to manage the level of damp in this wall and it had best be tanked to 1m, after stripping back to the brick and left for some weeks to dry out. Eventually the reading was low enough to allow for the tanking and replastering.
Fortunately I had done my research, asked some questions, and knew that the tanking layer was going to be green. I wasn’t living in the house when this was done, so I was very surprised, on my next visit, to see this wall all done and skimmed - so quick!
I had my suspicions. I carved a 25mm sq hole down thru’ the plaster to the brick. I did not come across a layer of green stuff. The plasterer had missed out the tanking layer!
It all had to come off, back to the brick, and done again.
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We had a similar experience here, except for the checking that you did. Damp end wall in our stone cottage that required replastering. Guys were going to tank it and we believed they’d done it. 5-6 years later plaster had started blowing. Eventually we had a flood & it had to be re-done. The original firm came back with a quote & when I showed him round he remembered the wall and said “this was supposed to be tanked, wasn’t it?”. They didn’t get repeat business.
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The only thing i would use PVA for is general wood working joints and release agent for fibreglass or carbon fibre mouldings. Now building a wooden aircraft i wouldnt even use it for that (joints etc). Only epoxy or an epoxy based adhesive.
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Completely agree.
Have you done it?
Not yet. Extensive research on suitable adhesive. Useful advice from the training officer of BAL UK, one of the leading adhesive manufacturers.
One of their adhesives will take 10mm height deviation ‘locally’. The equivalent adhesive on sale here (BAL not) is a Sika product. Nobody ever got fired for specifying Sika. Amz.fr sell it.
So the valleys between the useless ribs will be ok at 3mm below height of ribs. Waiting for more tiles as I had a training run with the mosaics on the wall behind the basin.
Did a lot of tiling Inc some mosaics but that was almost 20 years ago. Got a reminder that adhesive oozing between the squares must be wiped off immediately. Much more difficult to deal with mosaics covered in dry adhesive than larger tiles.
Will probably save the shower tray to last, after tiling bathroom floor, install new cabinets with basin, install bidet …
As usual, there will be snaps.
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Kerapoxy by Mapei is widely available too.
I used Ardex extensively in the UK for pool work or total immersion situations.
Just suggestions